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Miki Dora Article “Mickey on Malibu” SURRFER Vol. 8. #6 (1967)

agosto 26, 2013
“Malibu… is my perfect wave. And when it’s right, it’s right in the palm
of my hand. These wares will never change, only the people on them…
and that’s what I remember, the waves I ride, not the crud that floats
around them.

“Up until ’59 I had Malibu barren, with 6’+ power swells. These are my
cherished days I shall never reveal to anyone.

“(Today) I talk to kids I think, are in the know, who are still riding
waves for the sheer freedom they offer…(and) their concept of Malibu
is a complete Valley takeover, a fantasy of insanity filled with kooks of
all colors, super-egomania running rampant, fags, finks and pork chop-
ism. (And the) tragic thing is it’s all true….

“However, I can’t help feeling there’s something happening. New
philosophies are taking hold…in certain segments of the sport, and I
hope (they) want the same things I want: freedom to live and ride
nature’s waves, without the oppressive hang-up of the mad, insane
complex that runs the world and this sick, sick war.

“Things are going to change drastically in the next year-or-so, for all
of us, whether we like it or not. Maybe a few will go forward and
make it a better world.

“These are incredible times.

“Thank. God for a few, free waves.”

—”Mickey on Malibu”
SURRFER Vol. 8. #6

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